Moss Control

 Dialogue Regarding Moss Problem


-----Original Message-----
From: Rob
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2005 5:37 PM
To: philip Hamling
Subject: Controling Moss On A Green.

       Hi Phil,

         Having a moss problem is like having a disease problem. Some Cultural practices help, but won't prevent the problem from happening.
        I have concern with aerating once a month every month for the growing season. Once the green had recovered from the first aeration it would be time to aerate the green again. You would be looking at aeration holes at different stages of recovery all season long?  The reasons we aerate our greens are, # 1 To relieve compaction and to help control thatch accumulation. # 2 To improve air & water movement into the root zone mix. # 3 To release the build up of Carbon Dioxide gas in the root zone mix into the atmosphere. I don't see how aerating a green is going to help control or prevent moss from getting into the green.
         The last few years on Vancouver Island there has been a few course's having moss problems in their greens, it's a problem that seems to be growing, at this point we don't know why.
        I talked with a superintendent that has a moss problem and this is how he is dealing with it. Green location is very important, having good sun light penetration and wind movement around the green will help create a healthy grassplant. He is using a product called Koside the active ingredient is Copper Hydroxide. This product is very photo toxic to the grassplant, so his first application starts in Nov, because of the cooler temp's. He will do a total of 6 applications to get rid of the moss.
       Starts in Nov, sprays 5 oz per 1000sq.ft on the green, waits 28 days then spray the second application. Wait 28 days spray the third application. He will follow this program until all 6 applications are done. Also he will add Ferromic ( liquid N ) 2 -4 oz per 1000sq.ft. to the mix, this is because when using Copper Hydroxide it will slightly yellow the plant, Ferromic helps to keep the plant green.
        Phil this is just one way of controlling moss on a green. I would talk with some local superintendents that have a moss problem and see what they are doing. I hope this helps, stay in touch - Rob.


-----Original Message-----

From: []

Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2005 8:09 AM

To: Phil Hamling

Subject: moss



A review of last winter's notes revealed a few things:

1. Your ph was 7.2 - which is optimal for bentgrass.

2. The soil textural analysis revealed the sub-soil composition to be: sand-66%, silt-20%, clay14%. The report indicated that the sand should be up around 80-85% and the clay under 8%. The turf techs said that your current composition, despite the optimal ph would result in moss. They recommended monthly aeration and top dressing with coarse grade USGA sand. They thought that over a two year period that you could decrease moss mechanically. So, as you and I have both thought, it is a structural, drainage, water retention issue.

3. Finally, they mentioned that the chemical Cytokete is somewhat effective in controling moss. This is not a lawn chemical but is found as the main ingredient in Oxyclean. I remember that Jim LaRue also mentioned that dish soap could be used. I think that these are pretty much the same


In the mean time I have spot tested a few areas on the second biggest green with a higher level of iron to see how far we can push it before doing damage. I will follow up and let you know.




-----Original Message-----

From: Philip Hamling

Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 9:47 AM

To: 'Rob'

Subject: RE: Can you help me with moss



Hey, How are you?

I am having a problem with moss creeping into my greens and have been having real problems getting rid of it. Do you see it in your neck of the woods? Can you recommend any cultural, mechanical and chemical solutions to help me get rid of it? There is limestone in my area. Moss grows on the face of it. My water comes from wells drilled through it. I think sometimes my soil and water are basic which adds to the problem. Is there an acidic material I can use as a cure? I've covered the problem extensively in the past with a guy who apply chemicals for me. We had been using iron based compounds, which set it back. Last year he applied it too heavy in heat and killed large patches.

 In the mean time I have spot tested a few areas on the second biggest green with a higher level of iron to see how far we can push it before doing damage. I will follow up and let you know.

What are your thoughts?

Phil Hamling